"Frank Grimes" (FrankGrimes)
12/15/2013 at 11:53 • Filed to: None
2
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"Frank Grimes" (FrankGrimes)
12/15/2013 at 11:53 • Filed to: None | 2
| 21 |
Parts seems fairly cheap but I might suck at reasearch. The cars seem straight forward and they are common enough cars they can be had for pretty cheap.
I have always wanted one since my older brother told me what they were when I was a youth.
BMW M3 Lightweight FTW
DollaMoneyAve
> Frank Grimes
12/15/2013 at 12:00 |
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It kinda depends on your budget dude. Good luck
EL_ULY
> Frank Grimes
12/15/2013 at 12:11 |
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Pre Purchase advice, very helpful
and many MANY more issues he missed, they are great cars though truuust me, here is mine
purchase an AFE Stage 2 3.5" intake and MAF immediately after you get it, many smiles will be had. Also rear toe adjustment tool and front fan clutch holder and wrench
Aaron James
> Frank Grimes
12/15/2013 at 12:11 |
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If you can do all the work yourself it wouldn't be a bad idea, I've seen many for sale with over 200,000 miles. There is no real set mileage when a car will die, If it's well taken care of and serviced I would buy one, but I could do anything it needed. If it's been thrashed, it will be a nightmare. Have it thoroughly inspected, not just a glance over inspection. It's possible that you could get another 50k trouble free miles with only maintenance and little things needed, or it could become a very bad B-grade horror movie. Good thing about B movies is there's almost always boobs.
Arch Duke Maxyenko, Shit Talk Extraordinaire
> Frank Grimes
12/15/2013 at 12:13 |
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Go to pelicanparts.com
But problems on a E36 are: minor electrical gremlins, the shifter linkage bushings, window regulators need to be lubed, cooling system... But parts are reasonable, they are easy to work on, should be good for at least double that mileage.
wacopalypsenow
> Frank Grimes
12/15/2013 at 12:24 |
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From what I understand, VANOS is a key research term
BKRM3
> Frank Grimes
12/15/2013 at 12:39 |
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Look for one being sold by a BMW CCA member who tracks it. Track cars are insanely well maintained, especially ones used for the BMW club's HPDEs. In fact, if you're 100% certain you're going to buy a BMW you should join the CCA (for 48 bucks) and check out what might be listed for sale in the club magazine (Roundel) or on the website's classified section. Additionally, some dealers do FREE pre-purchase inspections for CCA members. It's a pretty solid membership to have.
ddavidn
> Frank Grimes
12/15/2013 at 13:07 |
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I did it. It was a decent idea for me at the time, but has come to cost more money than I wanted. Maintenance records and proper care are obviously what you're looking for. I bought mine a few years ago for $2500, and in the first year it cost me another $2,000. The previous owner hadn't taken care of her very well. You will almost certainly have a lifter tick, too. I would be prepared to work on it a lot, parts aren't too expensive but will cost you more than many common japanese cars. You should also be ready to work on some wires. Any used car is a gamble, though. My Subaru and M3 are both at about 200,000 miles and this weekend they were both useless. Best idea is to do some research, post the cars you're looking at on Oppo, and listen to all of us tell you to get a Miata instead.
Z_Stig
> Frank Grimes
12/15/2013 at 17:10 |
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150K isn't that bad at all. I got 250k+ on mine.
jdrgoat - Ponticrack?
> Frank Grimes
12/16/2013 at 02:38 |
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My cousin is looking to upgrade from his E36 currently. He bought it with 140k-ish miles, in college, and currently has 220k-ish. It needs more work now than he wants to do, but I don't think it took much to get it this far.
rabidpenguin
> Arch Duke Maxyenko, Shit Talk Extraordinaire
12/16/2013 at 12:36 |
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I also use
bmaparts.com
gutenparts.com
and just for reference:
realoem.com
I say go for it, it is really tough to find one with less than 150K
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rabidpenguin
> BKRM3
12/16/2013 at 12:38 |
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You should definetley join your local BMWCCA. The parts/service discounts are alone worth it. That is on top of the magazine and access to other owners and driving events.
Ted
> Frank Grimes
12/17/2013 at 08:44 |
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I have a 95 M3. It is always broken.
I always tell people it's a fantastic car to drive but it's a horrible car to own.
I still have it though because it is my favorite car to drive, period. Expect a love/hate relationship with it and have another car to drive when the E36 is down and you're buying or making weird BMW tools so that you can work on it.
JJJenningsIII
> rabidpenguin
12/17/2013 at 09:21 |
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Gutenparts has the coolest stuff
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rabidpenguin
> JJJenningsIII
12/17/2013 at 09:33 |
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Yes he does, and his shop is pretty awesome as well. He also does a "Gutenfest" once a year and if you like old beemers you have to go to it.
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JJJenningsIII
> rabidpenguin
12/17/2013 at 09:58 |
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Best.car.meet.ever.
I've been the last 2 years, its like a time warp back to the 80s
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rabidpenguin
> JJJenningsIII
12/17/2013 at 10:17 |
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What were you driving? I was there last year in the ragtop lot.
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JJJenningsIII
> rabidpenguin
12/17/2013 at 10:42 |
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I have a white 4 door. It's nice and clean, but not much of a standout in the sea of amazing e30s that gfest brings in.
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rabidpenguin
> JJJenningsIII
12/17/2013 at 11:11 |
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I know what you mean, i have a triple black 'vert with recaros and it looks likes a jalopy next to some of the other cars that are there.
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Frank Grimes
> Ted
12/17/2013 at 12:01 |
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I would like to hear more about this. My impression of these cars are that the parts are reasonable priced from what things I have looked into and that the motors and drivetrain are relible and seem fairly easy to work on.
What parts are typical failures? What are the expensive parts on these cars?
Lets see some of these tools. Maybe a separate post would be awesome so others can learn and see as well.
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Ted
> Frank Grimes
12/17/2013 at 12:46 |
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Typical issues with the E36
1. Water pump impeller dissentegrating
2. oil pump nut
3. plastic radiator end caps
4. early model valve retainer failure
5. RTAB bushings and suspension mount cracks
6. wiring breaks at trunk, door, and hood hinges
Those are things major things I would look out for. Replacing the RTABS requires special tools, you'll need to buy a set of Torx sockets. Removing the camshafts requires special tools.
My car specifically, I have had a valve retainer failure which resulted in a new set of valves, and pistons. I have had the radiator end tanks break and lead to an overheat and resulting head gasket failure. Rear suspension mounts had cracks in the welds. I've had to remove the engine and transmission to change the starter because it's put on so tight and torx head bolts are impossible to get to.
I'm currently looking to rebuild my engine or buy a new engine and put in it due to the head gasket failure.
I have not had any problems with the manual transmission or other driveline. The car drives fantastic and has tons of power especially after putting on some toys. It's still my favorite car and I miss driving it a lot right now.
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Frank Grimes
> Ted
12/17/2013 at 14:49 |
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Sweet car! Love the wheels. Thanks for sharing your info and experiences. I find it helpful in making me more confident in buying one of these.